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Paris – "Has been", tobacco? The unconventional Jean Paul Gaultier made dance-volutes -virtuelles- cigarette, in his haute couture collection fall-winter 2018-2019 which played with the idea of smoking, Wednesday the last day of parades in Paris.
The designer, who upset the fashion of the 1980s, has always loved the transgression. The cigarette, against which the world health authorities lead the war, inspires jewelry: necklace, earring, bracelet.
Images of volutes of smoke are projected on the white curtain from which the models come out and the parade opens on the song " Cigarette " Jacques Higelin, disappeared last April. The final wedding dress, vaporose organza green water, also evokes a cloud of tobacco evanescent.
Other dresses are all sinuosities. The models here hold a pipe, there a cigarette holder, or an electronic cigarette. In this collection where male figures were numerous, the opponents of tobacco are also present, wearing a fur sweater or mask, message " no smoking ".
A play on words with the tuxedo, a central element of this essentially black and white collection, declined to infinity.
The designer also wanted to send a message of " freedom ": " the freedom one should be able to have, to smoke or not to smoke ," he says. to AFP. " We're in a pretty civilized world ," he pins.
Irony of the calendar, the French Minister of Health Agnès Buzyn had qualified this morning the tobacco of " has been ", adding that smoking was " more in the air of time ".
– " Free Nipples " –
Freedom for Jean Paul Gaultier is also expressed with the message " bad free " or " free the nipple ", inscribed on transparent plastic bustiers, worn on the skin by a man and a woman.
" Men have the right to be shirtless, why should not women have the right? ," he says.
" I do not say that I must, I am for corsets and bras! But the woman may not wear it! ", continues the designer, in reference an incident " quite scandalous " in which a girl was summoned by the direction of his high school in Florida for not wearing a bra under his sweatshirt.
But the designer has provided plastic protections for " show that one can walk bare bads without wanting to be attacked and badaulted ".
Another star of the collection, the fez. Directed by the British hatter Stephen Jones, this traditional headdress red felt truncated cone, headdress of many heads. Silhouettes of riders on the podium, with pants and riding boots.
The couturier, known for his art of cutting clothes, likes to make pants shorts, using the rest to make boots. A model with red hair, wearing a swirling blue tulle dress, reminds Yvette Horner, queen of the accordion and popular balls, and friend of Jean Paul Gaultier, disappeared in June.
Among the celebrities in the front row of the show was the musician Nile Rodgers, whom Jean Paul Gaultier called for his show " Fashion Freak Show ", which evokes his own journey and must be played from October 2 to the Folies Bergère in Paris. Also present was the filmmaker Tonie Marshall, with whom the designer co-directs the staging.
The director confided her " admiration for Jean Paul Gaultier's creativity forever". In her parades, " I always saw something that was beyond fashion, a way to theatricalize, to think ," she told AFP.
The show " will tell his life, and how he counted in the evolution of the mentality of many people, on gender, on freedom, on transgression ".
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