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If fashion becomes an increasingly politicized space, Gucci's creative director, Alessandro Michele, did not miss the opportunity to make himself known at the brand's last show in Rome. Referring to recent outrage over the ban on abortion in the United States, he said he "wanted to consider the fact that women should be respected" with his latest collection and use its leading position to promote freedom of choice.
Women "should be free to choose what they want and end a pregnancy … [it] It's the hardest choice for a woman to make and I respect that choice, "he told reporters at a press conference after the show at the Palazzo New Museum.
Michele had presented a collection of 97 outfits with t-shirts with slogans, including "My Body, My Choice" and "Chime", the latter referring to Gucci's long campaign for gender equality, Chime for Change. . The star piece was a long silk dress representing a flower growing inside a uterus represented by an embroidery.
The fact that he presents such direct references alongside the papal silhouettes – including several repetitions of the distinctive cappello romano hats, secretary necklaces and shoulder blades worn by the clergy and the habits of the nuns – has created a gap between the Michele's free choice lawyers and the position of Catholics. church in a sharp context. The Vatican, located not far from the show venue on Capitol Hill, on the other side of the Tiber, may have launched a women's football team with the Pope's blessing last week, but his opposition to the Abortion is unshakeable.
The inclusion of such clothing has also shown that Michele did not give up religious appropriation after the controversy at the beginning of the month over her use of the turban that the Sikh Council of the United Kingdom described as "mimicry". degrading". The narrative around his latest collection uses a quote from the French archeologist and historian Paul Veyne as manifesto: "Only a pagan antiquity aroused my desire because it was the world before, because it was a world abolished. "
The move of the Milanese brand to Rome was a homecoming for Michele, 47, born in the city and who studied at the Accademia di Costume e di Moda. He continued to take an interest in the "old world," revealing that he had started as a child growing up surrounded by the city's antiquities.
"I came [to this museum] child because I did not like football or amusement parks. I have always been interested in art and I became obsessed with architecture here because there are antiques here that have never left, "he said. "In many ways, I am like an archaeologist. I discover things that I like but that you can not see. "
This included a laurel leaf headdress, draped togas and an abundance of gold medallions, engraved trinkets and elaborate gold veneers for both jewelery and body armor. The show was staged almost in the dark and the public provided with torches.
In addition to the ancient inhabitants of the Eternal City, Stevie Nicks was Michele's muse for this collection and perhaps many others. The Fleetwood Mac star is Michele's Gucci-inspired aesthetic poster of the 1970s. Flared trousers, long dresses and retro knitwear featured a carefree writing by Michele. Light cases labeled "The Gucci Group" also carried the Veyne quote. An ongoing collaboration with another American icon, Mickey Mouse, also focused on coats, bags and basics.
Nicks played a set at the post-show night featuring two duos with Harry Styles, the star of Michele's current campaign. The designer and star of One Direction were seen together on the Met ball red carpet in New York earlier this month, marking the opening of the highly successful Camp exhibition, the fashion note.
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