Spain: The Eternal Triangle – NZ Herald

The life and work of Dali take shape for Dana Schimmel

If the name of Salvador Dali evokes visible rockets and a mustache visible, the visit of the "Dali Triangle" in Spain will be not only a fantastic road This trip will show that the work of the renowned surrealist is much more important.

The houses of Dali, converted into museums, are located along the Costa Brava, a rugged coastline of about 160 km north-east of Catalonia. Plan a leisurely walk with stops at Pubol, Figueres and Portlligat – the three points of the triangle – to discover the museums, Dali art and the beautiful natural landscape that has helped shape and inspire one of the most iconic artists. Dali Castle Museum

Dali bought a medieval castle in the village of Pubol for his wife Elena Ivanovna Diakonova, better known as the Gala. The couple transformed the structure, built on the remains of a 14th century stone castle, into a house where Gala could both reign and relax. Her husband was allowed to visit only by written invitation

. Many works of art – including Dali's gifted paintings of his wife – are on display as well as personal items ranging from monogrammed silver cutlery in a half-open kitchen drawer. Datsun burned-orange, parked outside on a pebble alley. Then there is this eccentric artifact: Dali's beloved white horse, taxidermied, standing near the museum's restroom.

The upper floor shows a collection of Gala couture dresses. The basement houses its last resting place: it is enshrined in a mausoleum guarded by a large toy giraffe, surprisingly more touching than banal.

Figueres: Theater-museum Dali and jewels of Dali

Figueres, named for its abundant fig trees, is a small lively town about 40 km north of Pubol. You'll know you've arrived when you see a giant transparent geodesic dome or a massive egg collection on top of a building. This is, of course, the Dali Theater-Museum, which the artist has designed from the burnt remains of the city's Municipal Theater.

Without the constant stream of visitors propelling you along the one-way galleries, you could spend hours, days or forever watching and analyzing some 1,500 Dali artworks – paintings, drawings, sculptures , prints, installations, holograms, stereoscopic images and photographs.

Some works will make you smile, like the fireman -red Mae West Lips Sofa, a sculpture of the size of a couch inspired by the lips of the actress. And there is Rainy Taxi who, for the price of a euro, will rain in himself, soaking his model passengers and plants and snails for the proverbial ride.

Other works are quietly beautiful, like the first oil portrait of Dali Anna Maria, looking out the window at the sea and the cliffs of Cadaques

But some paintings are so violent, macabre , intense and intricate that it would not be wrong to hang a small sign saying: at your peril.

Dali's drawings reminded me of how well he was a master draftsman, and he was good to see several paintings with the familiar watch: one of Dali's most famous motives.

By the time you make your way through museum, maybe stop to pay homage to Dali's tomb – exhumed in 2017 to settle a claim of paternity (refuted) – you will have seen so much that you will feel a little overwhelmed.But do not miss the adjacent museum Dali Jewels.Visit this dark and luminous gallery, which contains 39 jewels, c & # 39; is like going into a pirate chest.

If I could pick a piece for my personal collection, I'd go with either Ruby Lips in 18K gold with over 100 rubies and 13 white pearls for the teeth, or phone ear clips one in gold, diamonds, rubies and emeralds. They are sublime and playful, but not stupid.

"I'm happy if my earrings with jewels bring a smile," says Dali. "A smile is a nice thing, but these earrings, like all my jewelry The earrings express the ear, symbol of harmony and unity, connote the speed of modern communication, the hope and danger of the instantaneous exchange of thought. "

Cadaques: Salvador Dali House, Portlligat

Figueres are the neighboring hilly beach towns of Cadaqués and Portlligat.
Dali spent his holidays here with his family, then turned a fishing hut into a sprawling house.

Entering the house, now a museum, you will see a taxidermy polar bear. Then, through narrow and winding corridors that mimic the roads leading to the house, you emerge into whitewashed spaces full of surprises: dead-end corridors and a room with pink curtains that resonates – only if you're in the right place. Thick sisal carpets, bundles of dried flowers, stuffed animals, seashells and starfish, antique furniture and Dali photos fill the interior at its peak

Uneven windows form perfect frames for the outdoor landscape of Dali. job. Stacked shelves with paint supplies can be seen on a staircase adjacent to the studio. On the outside there is a walled terrace, a swimming pool, a flower garden, an olive grove, sculptures and installations.

This third point of the "Dali Triangle" is filled with interior and exterior art.

IMPLANT
Emirates flies from Auckland to Barcelona, ​​with direct connections to Dubai. Return economy class fare is available from $ 1849

Pubol is approximately 120 km from Barcelona.
salvador-dali.org