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For his fall collection, Zuhair Murad turned to Imperial Russia, exploring the textures and motifs of the time, as well as references to military combinations. A dark palette serves as a backdrop for elaborate embroidery; floral and arabesque motifs applied in bronze, gold and silver. The designer threw in a bright blue, which he used to make long robes with flowing capes. The red was a rich accent – woven in a floral pattern on a black crepe cape dress in one case, and incorporated on a jacket paired with harem pants in another.
There was solid red, with an asymmetrical beaded dress, the embroidery is a Faberge pattern. For the rest of the color scheme, he turned to pale shades of green, gray, and pale blue; ivory serving as a luxurious backdrop for gold beading.
But it was not all about Fabergé's balls, tsarines and eggs. Murad widens his reach, adding weight through masculine elements borrowed from military uniforms.
"There is something military but always sexy … it gives you confidence and strength," Murad says backstage. A black velvet coat wore bronze and red accents, the jacket cut very short in front to reveal the belly. There was also a short red romper outfit with silver and gold beading – both were contemporary.
Playing on textures, Murad added lace as a contrast, including a long-sleeved dress with a plunging neckline and satin, velvet and slanted lace stripes to the side.
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