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Too good to be true, it was the first thought. When one spoke to me about an "unknown" jewel outside the most touristy city of Croatia, I knew that the skeptic of me raised an eyebrow.
How can a group of islands worthy of a postcard be at peace with Dubrovnik as the closest neighbor?
But suddenly there was a sunny day in the spring of 2018, and while the continent relies on five months of chaos, only two guest houses are open in Sipan, the largest of the three inhabited places of the world. 39, archipelago of Elafiti.
Zdravko Simunovic, 65, runs one of them, a salmon-colored waterside building that bears the name of the family.
– People come here for nature, swimming and relaxation.
– Fortunately, there is not much else to do.
Everyone knows everything
A break in the skylight means breakfast in the open air. At this time of year, the rain usually blows the landscape several times a day before the sun sets in late April and transforms the colors of the sea, the sky and the vegetation until eleven [19659016] – Then the islands show themselves on the other side says Zdravko.
– Then we spend a day in Dubrovnik, the hotels open again and those who choose to spend the night are usually longer than expected.
Right now, it's me, the shady French in room 4 and a population of less than 500 inhabitants. Zdravko says the Elafiti Islands were home to many families, peasants, fishermen and sailors.
There has been farming here since ancient times, olive oil and Elafiti wine were sought after by the nobility of Dubrovnik , which also used the islands as a resort when the summer sun was so bad. On a hill behind the Zdravkos guest house is the family farm, where most of the breakfast table has its origins. Dried apricots, olives, figs, lemons. Honey is the neighbor who provides. "Everyone knows everyone here," Zdravko said.
In search of the continent's refuge
The Elafiti Islands have long existed during the trip to Croatia. Too many people – especially those arriving by cruise ships – are near Dubrovnik somewhere one morning before the trip continues along the milk route of the Adriatic coast.
That, Zdravko says, is changing – and the reason is obvious. "It's the road on the mainland," he says.
– People are finally exhausted and seek refuge here.
In other words, it is no longer controversial to claim that Dubrovnik has become too popular for its best. In an article published by The Telegraph in 2017, it appears that 10,388 tourists bought tickets for the city walls during one day in August, a record that exceeds ten times the resident population.
– They are trying to regulate the number of ships to date and how big they can be, says Zdravko.
– But there is no doubt that Dubrovnik now belongs to the world.
The Elafiti Islands will never end in the same situation, says Zdravko, and it's good. It is the history and traditional architecture that extend as far as the city of Dubrovnik, but it is scattered and rough on the edges. The landscape is beautiful, but irregular and hilly. Beaches (with a few exceptions) are not always made up of silky sand. "The Elafiti Islands are a place to discover," said Zdravko, instead of just being seen.
Wild and beautiful
Unlike most travelers seeking the archipelago as part of a day trip, I spent three days exploring the islands .
Not that we need such a good time. Here in Sipan, the trip goes from north to south in just 15 minutes by bike, but since the sun suddenly looks to the front I'm tired of it.
Small road outside the village, I am in the middle of nature, the Elafiti Islands are famous for: a lush and irregular landscape broken by farmland and traditional stone houses.
The smell of wild rosemary wedges in my nostrils as I navigate the network of hiking trails. The name Elafiti comes from the Greek word for deer, I learn via a sign on the side of the road. There were thousands on the islands, but as with other elements of traditional life, they disappeared little by little.
Sipan – like his sister island Lopud and Kolocep – has a raw, rustic, sometimes dilapidated, but beautiful aesthetic. Lopud is more popular with tourists because of the beaches, Kolocep is famous for its 1000 year old stone churches.
The villages of the three islands are lazy and fun-oriented, full of cafes, small hotels, and simple, family-run shops.
I am ancient trails through secluded olive groves, abandoned farmhouses by the sun and up to the top of the island. Here, from the highest point of the Elafiti Islands – if you applaud the morning sun – you can see the narrow road to Dubrovnik.
The city of the world suddenly seems a world away.
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