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By Elin McCoy, Bloomberg
The PROSECCO boom is real: sales are expected to reach 412 million bottles per year by 2020, compared with 150 million 10 years ago.
But, um, this is old news.
It's time to move on to the next stage: Bubbles under world class radars in the Franciacorta and Trentino regions of northern Italy. Unlike the Prosecco populist, they are made with the same grapes and the same method of intensive work as Champagne, which gives them a similar style and elegance, but at a price much lower on average than those of their French counterparts. In addition, their quality continues to improve, thanks to avant-garde winemakers who use the techniques of organic viticulture.
These wines have been forgotten because the regions are small and little of what they produce was exportable. This changes however. Global demand for sparkling wines is on the rise and Italian producers see an opportunity to benefit from the popularity of Prosecco in the United States and the United Kingdom, with large and small producers of other wines focusing on quality that importers are looking for. Online retailers have added more labels to the United States and wine stores have begun to store some of the brands.
Franciacorta is the name of the region and wine. Compared to Champagne, which produces around 300 million bottles a year, the 117 wineries in Franciacorta produce less than 20 million bottles a year and export only 11%. Trentodoc, the trademark of Trentino sparkling wines, is even smaller: only 51 producers will flush out 8 to 9 million bottles a year and export 20%. And neither region has vineyards that tell the century-old story of a "drinking star" monk like the legendary Dom Perignon in Champagne.
But the vineyards have been in both places for centuries, even though the line of sparkling Franciacorta wines dates back to the 1960s. Franciacorta, about an hour from Milan's fashion center, lies at the foot of the Alps, near from Lake Iseo, where artist Christo created a floating wharf show two years ago. The Trentodoc, at high altitude, lies in the shadow of the steep Dolomite mountains, northeast of Lake Garda. The modern history of sparkling wines in this region dates back to 1902, when the now famous Ferrari winery (no relation to the sports car manufacturer) planted grapes of Chardonnay.
Chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as a little pinot blanc, are the most important grapes, but some Franciacorta winemakers, worried about global warming, are starting to adopt white grape erbamat, which has a longer growing period than the acidity chardonnay even when the grapes are very ripe.
The two regions offer a variety of styles, but Franciacorta also has its own entirely white grape assemblage, called satèn ("silk" in Italian). It is creamier, with a sweeter effervescence and is designed as an appetizer.
The bubbles enter the wine via the metodo classicoas they do in Champagne. The base wine is bottled with yeast and a small amount of sugar to create a second fermentation by trapping CO2 in the bottle. The wine is aged between 15 and 60 months. In Franciacorta, most winemakers start using very little or no sugar before they are released. Labeled "zero dosaggio"Or" nature ", these wines have more energy and purity.
What this means is that these wines do not taste champagne. They are fresh and lively, but also more ripe, with less nervous acidity and creamier peach and pear flavors. Here are nine of my favorites.
Trentodoc
• Ferrari Perlé Brut 2011. This sparkling, creamy, all-chardonnay sparkler comes from the largest estate in the region, owned by the Lunelli family. It has lush almond flavors and freshly baked bread with aromas of apple and white peach. $ 36
• Rotari Brut Rosé 2013. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with a strawberry and ripe cherry flavor. It has lip gloss and is excellent for the price. $ 18
Franciacorta
• NV Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut. Mosnel (the new labels do not show the Il) is located in the heart of Franciacorta. Lively, brilliant, salty and rich, this combo of chardonnay, pinot blanc and just a little pinot noir gives too much for the price. $ 25
• NV Ronco Calino Satèn Brut. A small producer (only 5,000 crates a year), Ronco Calino was founded 23 years ago. This 100% chardonnay is an Italian version of white of whites. Citrus, mineral and fresh, it has a creamy texture and is ideal with spicy hors d'oeuvres. $ 29
• 2014 Arcari + Danesi Dosaggio Zero. Giovanni Arcari and Nico Danesi are rebels in the region who are constantly striving to create a fizz very original and distinct from Champagne. This 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc bottle has a silky and complex texture, with floral and golden apple aromas and fruit and mineral aromas. $ 35
• NV Ca del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Brut. Ca del Bosco, one of the largest producers in the region, also produces high quality cuvées, such as the exotic Annamaria Clementi, which are hard to find. It is easier to get this elegant and basic bottle. It's a blend of mostly Chardonnay with Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc with mint aromas and a spicy, salty taste. $ 35
• NV Ferghettina Rosé Brut. Fizz from this relatively new solid producer includes this 100% pinot noir, delicate pink and sparkling, in a beautiful transparent bottle. It has aromas and flavors of cherry and bright flowers, with a lot of structure. $ 50
• Monte Rossa Cabochon Brut 2012 An intense blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, it is smoky and serious with aromas of citrus and toasted hazelnuts. It's sharp and you wash your mouth – in a good way. $ 70
• 2006 Bellavista Franciacorta Extra Brut Vittorio Moretti. The entry-level wines of this good producer set a high standard. This flagship product is made from the best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines in the vineyard and is superb. Harmonious and golden, it is bursting with flavors of citrus, caramel and yellow fruit. $ 120
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