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Paulo Morais gives classrooms Paulo Morais has already written books Paulo Morais was one of the first Portuguese chefs to specialize in Asian cuisine. Repetition is intentional because we think about it all, almost mechanically, as we sample the July menu (yes, change monthly) from the exclusive Kanazawa, which is at Pedrouços, beyond a door that goes unnoticed.
Having the privilege of occupying one of the eight places in this restaurant (sporadically, it can seat 10 people) does not just mean the best of Japanese cuisine, as if that does not was not enough, it also means receiving lessons from Japanese culture, given by Paulo Morai s in the most natural way possible.
Even before the food arrives in front of us, the chef is already talking to us about yuzu, because he's working on it, explaining that it's citrus of the Japanese. And he arranges the fish dish and sashimi of seafood from our coast with an aromatic round of this kind of lemon – it serves us the belly of tuna, mackerel, lily, emperor, black mouth and bomboca (a seafood that looks like a huge jar) of consistency qb)
Let it be calm because it is already the second plate of the kaiseki menu, which we taste, patiently. Adverb so that it arises just as well when you take a small samurai yellow origami hat that decorates our place at this counter. It is the skillful hands of the eldest daughter of the chief who have accomplished the task of making them. Attention, there was no exploitation of children: Paulo Morais paid 10 cents for each colorful piece to the little artist of 15 years.
Naka choko is a vegetable press ( peppers, squash, carrots, eggplant and asparagus), crystallized in seaweed gelatin and topped with trout eggs
MEAT, JAPANESE
C & # 39 is with a toast of rice, eel, tomato, peach and sauce of the same grilled fruit, that we started with this dinner ten times, and paired with the wines of Quinta da Boa Hope Here we try to promote the producers of the Lisbon region, combining their wines as parade dishes. This tasting menu is the only one that includes the drink (150 €), but you can also choose to take one, two or four dishes to the list and the value goes down to 100, 90 or 60 euros, without drinks [19659003WhenyoutalkaboutaJapaneserestaurantitisnotthemeatthatcomestoyouinthemindisnotit?FalseWeonlyrealizeitaftertastingtheporkthroatwithsweetpotatoeszucchinianddashibrothItisthenthatPaulMoraisshowsusthestonetunathatservesforexampletoflavorthebrothNowonderfishspendclosetoayearbeingtreatedlikethathardasapebbleandcanbegratedonaplaner-theyarecookedcookedsmokedanddriedInadditionwelearnthatthenameofthedish-takiawase-meansthatitsingredientsareallcookedseparatelyandonlyintheendunitedbydashibroth
We look forward to the Hassun, because they've already told us that it's right now, the boss is more risky. The name comes from boxes used in Japan as a measure of rice, for example. It's no coincidence that the mix of creations with seasonal products is very tidy in this wood cabin. Upon discovering the box, we discovered a divine gazpacho with white fish tartare and oyster leaf (as its name suggests, even seafood), a stuffed okra from the sea. sea urchins and shrimp, an anchovy terrine squeezed and another duck with a little foie gras and a cherry pickle with monkfish liver instead of a ball – this last combination of ingredients is without adjective, because we are unable to find one that will do justice (the flesh, my lords, still the flesh
We spent the naka choko, a vegetable press (pepper, pumpkin, carrot, eggplant and asparagus), crystallized in seaweed jelly and topped with trout eggs.The sauce is made from miso and rice vinegar.As soon as we can get it with the chopsticks and bring it to the mouth, the vegetables are released from each other and their flavor is felt, one by one.
We proc edons to a plate of pasta, we think, armed with experts. We did not expect it to be so thin and could be dry for a year. Much less than the dish would come with ice, to cool even more to that just mass and to soften the sauce that has some acidity. Otherwise, there is duck breast smoked by them, seaweed, asparagus and mushrooms.
The dish of the various sashimi is also part of the menu
FESTIM DE SUSHI
Not wishing to despise the tiger shrimp, some something that should never be done, we are aware of this, we will go through it (needless to say that it was in an irreproachable grid point) to get to sushi sushi moment, write for everyone know it, everything is rice. A rice that here is darkened by the vinegar aged in the wood and which is digested with another lightness.
By the way, sushi is growing big? Paulo Morais is accustomed to the question and has the answer on the tip of the tongue: "What makes you fat are the cheeses and donuts of the so-called fusion sushi!"
And with this exclamation we prepare for the sublime moment that follows the taste of a miso soup. In Japan, it is always eaten at the end of the meal and usually next to a bowl of rice. Paulo Morais serves it here with nigiris of everything else and something that comes out of a huge wooden box, where he stores a huge variety of fish and shellfish, already ready to serve in garnish a piece of rice that molds with the hands, with a vertiginous agility. In fact, the boss has the gift of making us believe that what he gives us to prove is easy to do, when he reveals the ingredients that are helped and as he shapes the dishes, just in front of our nose. But let us warn you, do not try it at home, let alone without the supervision of an adult.
Let's try not to skip any sushi, thanks to the notebook that accompanies us in these difficult missions. Through our plate-shaped plate (the page of flat gave to another text) passed oyster nigiri, scallop, carabineiro, lily, rill, song and emperor and another bomboca gunkan with trout eggs . They are placed one by one and eat by hand – from where the wet towel that they give us at this point of the meal. Ginger is here on the plate so we clean the palate every two or three pieces. And the wasabi, that Paulo Morais does on the spot, penetrates in all the nigiras that he serves, because it has "antiseptic properties, facilitates the digestion and is rich in vitamins". To end this treat, we threw a piece of tuna with wasabi and onion wrapped in sheets of capuchin to eat in two or three bites
While savoring the dessert, Paulo Morais admits that He likes the proximity provided, as you can talk to connoisseurs about the products you use and thus introduce them to better and better. For our part, we signed below. And before leaving, we always keep the tsuru origami that reaches us on the plate of tea – says it gives luck and years of life.
Kanazawa > R. Damião de Góis, 3, Lisbon> Mon-Sun 7 pm -23 pm
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