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The classic way of locating a manikin is no mystery to anyone. In 1988, Kate Moss was 14 years old and returned from a family trip to the Bahamas. She wanders the aisles of JFK Airport in New York, when a scouting talent – a model agent predisposed to "wild" recruitment – stops her and convinces her to become a model. His career follows.
Another example: Zoe Louis. The American goes to a concert of Ariana Grande early 2017, is spotted in the crowd and signed soon after at Ford Models. In September, she was seen on the podiums of Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Giambattista Valli. But with the evolution of technology, agencies have found a new hunting ground to find the new face of tomorrow among the millennials crowd: that of recruitment via Instagram. A system that changes somewhat the rules of the game since one can become an actor of his discovery.
From a Next Models e-mail to the Estée Lauder contract
The latest to date benefited: Anok Yai. The 19-year-old Sudanese-American has been living a fairy tale since a professional photographer posted a snapshot of her on her blog and Instagram account, followed by nearly 25,000 people. It must be said that it is difficult not to capture his magnetism. The photo was taken at an event at Howard University in Washington, to which Anok was invited. That day, she walks in shorts, we do not stop complimenting her, but she is too different, the skin too dark compared to apprentices models she admired all her childhood on television in the show " America's Next Top Model, "she told the Washington Post. The picture is posted by @thesunk on October 21st and goes back to his own @anokyai account.
In one morning, the young medical student wins nearly 50,000 subscribers. Today she has 174,000. In parallel, his mailbox explodes and in the middle of all the proposals of modeling agencies, a more serious than the others: Next Models in New York. The one who has always dreamed of following this path does not hesitate long before signing. In February 2018, she opened the Prada Fall-Winter 2018-2019 fashion show. Twenty years after Naomi Campbell, her model. Second black mannequin of history to receive this favor.
Consecration: Estée Lauder has just chosen her as an international muse at the beginning of summer. "By welcoming Anok, we are enriching the diversity of our current muses, and we are pursuing the brand's legacy of celebrating women from different backgrounds, ethnicities and ages," says Stéphane de la Faverie, its president. The girl of Egyptian descent joins Carolyn Murphy, Joan Smalls and Karlie Kloss. Anok Yai savored: "I hope to be an inspiration to young girls and women and I encourage them to feel undeniably beautiful."
The millennial model, master of his destiny?
Anok is part of this new generation that has captured the attention of agencies – voluntarily or not – through photos posted on networks. Thus the prestigious agency IMG organized a large-scale recruitment campaign on Instagram in 2015, entitled "We Love Your Genes". This allowed anyone to tag the #WLYG hashtag selfies, which the agency then went through. More than 14,000 people followed suit, but only a dozen (including the promising Sofia Rivolta and Mies Magrijn) won the Holy Grail, a contract with the agency. Because beyond the physical, it is also their universe that comes into play in the choice of professionals. We also imagine that this last criterion was paramount when the ultra-creative Marc Jacobs chose the muses of his autumn-winter 2014 and spring-summer 2015 campaigns via the hashtag #CastMeMarc. A new kind of recruiting for a new type of mannequin, less coat rack and more standard-bearer of a generation, without fear of differentiation.
MediaCongo
lefigaro.fr
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