Ovation standing at Valentino caps the week of Parisian couture

PARIS (AP) – Few rumors and screams resonate in the golden lounges of the Salomon de Rothschild Hotel while Pierpaolo Piccioli sinks in front of Valentino.

Mika, Valentino Garavani, Natalia Vodianova and Tracee Ellis Ross stood up as Maria Callas' catchy voice played the sumptuous creations of the week's strongest collection

Here are some highlights from the last day of Fall-Winter Haute Couture Week.

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THE OPERA OF VALENTINO

With the aria of "Casta Diva", The Sewing seemed to take as a starting point the glory days of Callas's legendary career in 1960s.

Giant brushed wigs hair and an unstructured blue celadon silk gown with a complex intarsia cloak opened the show of 63 the exaggerated style of that era. It took 1120 hours to make

Large multicolored round floral headdresses continued the retro feeling.

Games of loose and exaggerated proportions followed.

Gargantuan scarves surrounded the body – and a vermilion came.

The bows in the mikado collar, one in fluorescent yellow, were so big that they ended at the hip.

Despite the size, the looks were never too theatrical because Piccioli ensured to keep balanced proportions from top to bottom, and in keeping with the body size of the models.

A staggeringly triangular feathery floor dress might have been powerful, but was modeled on Kaia Gerber, daughter of Cindy Crawford

ODE OF THE GAULTIER IN SMOKING

A late Naomi Campbell unleashed a Dangerous media melee when she entered Jean-Paul Gaultier

raised the heat in the scor already In 1965, the public was banned, but smoking, the theme of the autumn-winter seam, n 39 was obviously not banned as a source of inspiration for fashion

. Unusual tribute from Gaultier to one of the dirtiest and most glamorous habits of the world for a typically ironic collection of 73 varied looks.

A black tuxedo jacket wore the words "Gaultier Smoking" on the front.

This was a pun on the French translation of "smoking," "the tuxedo" – and that continued in a myriad of black-and-white deconstructions of tuxedo looks.

A surrealistic variation on Morocco's red Fez hat – a country famous for its shisha pipes – also made an appearance. The red tassels seemed to hang like tears

The tulle masks followed white feathers representing plumes of smoke.

But the final creation – a giant silver bridal veil – was the most creative look. His glittering five – meter (16 feet) train was so diaphanous, he licked the air and evoked the rising smoke.

Pedro Almodovar's muse, actress Rossy de Palma, applauds the front row.

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ELIE SAAB & # 39; S GAUDI

Elie Saab took her itinerant couture inspiration to Barcelona this season.

Antoni Gaudi's famous modernist architecture – and its organic lines – have been at the center of many Lebanese designer dresses.

Oversize rounded shoulders, which were sometimes spectacularly raised from the body, constituted a new variation of the silhouette of the house with arched dimensions.

Saab's sewing workshop was working to weave together the crystals, glitter and pearls. As the program notes, they represent "the sinuosity of organic forms".

The swirling stone reliefs of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, inside the Louvre Palace, accentuate the architectural lines of clothing

. 19659 002] PARIS FASHION TOUCH THE PRESS

Some houses of Paris Fashion Week boast of careful control of the image and restrictive access to the press.

As private brands, it is their right – sometimes excessive elitism.

Invitations are sent to carefully selected journalists and buyers, and some homes prefer smaller rooms. The system is supposed to increase the mystery and cachet of clothes

Like Balenciaga, Maison Margiela under John Galliano is one of many with a very strict policy.

For the second season Maison Margiela extended their media repression to all He sent a note explaining that he would handle photography primarily "internally" for the Wednesday show.

Unusual movement means that almost all images of the seam are now under the direct control of House House Margiela

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Thomas Adamson on Twitter: www.twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K