Wine: climate change as an opportunity –



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After 2003 and 2015, Switzerland had its third summer summer since the beginning of the millennium. Farmers brought in the summer of crop failures in part important and livestock feed was scarce.

For winegrowers, however, the hot summer was a stroke of luck: in the cellars, a great vintage is maturing, both in quality and quantity. "High temperatures are almost always beneficial for viticulture in the canton of Zurich," says Peter Märki, director of Weinbauzentrum Wädenswil. Even the pronounced drought of last summer was not usually a problem. "Only the very young vines, which do not have deep roots yet, have had to be irrigated," he says.

Elsewhere, it is already too hot for some varieties

But what happens when not only do these summers pile up, but become more and more the norm? Will not it be too hot at a given moment in the dominant grape varieties of the canton of Zurich, pinot noir (also called pinot noir) and riesling-silvaner? "For the canton of Zurich, I do not see this danger," says Märki.
In Valais, however, where the climate is generally even warmer, Pinot Noir is in fact slowly pushed back to the benefit of other varieties. "In our region, we may only have to think about using other Pinot Noir clones that could better withstand a warmer climate."

A look back shows that climate change has already left its mark on Zurich viticulture in recent decades – slowly but surely. At the end of the 90s, the two most important varieties, Pinot Noir and Riesling-Silvaner, represented around 90% of the vineyards of the Canton of Zurich. Since then, the diversity of varieties has increased considerably: the share of the two main varieties was in 2017, according to the annual report of the Commissioner of the vineyard, always about 70%.

Among other things, varieties that are traditionally more widespread in wine growing areas further south have been planted more frequently. "The most important factor of this change is certainly the climate," said Märki. The tendentially longer growing season facilitates the cultivation of grape varieties, whose grapes take a little longer until mature. At the same time, winemakers have become more innovative, which they should also face more intense competition.

Will there be soon "Zurich Bordeaux"?

Statistically, varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are still exotic in Zurich viticulture. But last summer, they once again prospered. The measured oesle content, an important indicator of grape quality, exceeds the harvest values ​​of the last two years.

For example, could it be possible to produce Bordeaux wines in Zurich in the near future? These are mainly produced from the three varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. For these varieties, the climatic conditions in the canton of Zurich have improved in recent decades. According to studies based on climate forecasts, this evolution should continue. "Theoretically, we could try to produce Bordeaux wines in the canton of Zurich, but I would not recommend it," says Märki. Finally, viticulture has always to do with the local tradition. And of course, there are no such things for Bordeaux wines in the Canton of Zurich. "This is also the reason why, for example, a Merlot from the Canton of Zurich is not usually turned into a pure grape variety, but in cuvée with other varietals."

(Zurich regional newspapers)

Created: 19.10.2018, 17:12

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