What is retinol and how to use it

What is it?

Isabella Loneragan of The Dermal Diary calls Retinol "Mr. Fix-it" and a "miracle ingredient" because of its ability to solve various skin problems, ranging from acne to hyperpigmentation, passing by the wrinkles. Retinol is a form of vitamin A and a type of retinoid (retinoids are all forms of vitamin A) and vitamin A is important for the functioning of the skin.

As Loneragan says, "retinoids are forms of vitamin A that help promote healthy skin cell production.All retinoids contain essential retinoid acid, at different concentrations".

There are three different types of retinoids:
1. Pure Retinoic Acid – This is the most powerful form you can only buy on prescription.
2. Retinol – This is a weaker product and can be bought over the counter.
3. Retinol Derivatives – The derivatives are once again milder and can also be purchased from your pharmacist.

You can start with retinyl palmitate (for sensitive and dry skin) or retinol (for other skin types) and then make it a base. But like Charm magazine notes, studies have shown that the use of a lower retinol still has the same anti-aging effects over time as a moderate effect.

What's the point

So many things. Retinol helps the production of collagen, the fight against free radicals and exfoliation (allowing to return the skin cells). It helps the skin look firmer, sharper and improves skin tone and texture. There is no specific age to start using it, but you can start introducing it from age 25, especially if rashes or pigmentation are a problem.

Which products to choose

Retinol ceramide capsules with Elizabeth Arden These are good for retinol users for the first time. The moisturizing effect of ceramides balances retinol (which can be quite drying). Those with dry or dehydrated skin should always follow retinol with moisturizing moisturizer or serum.

Rapid Renewal Estee Lauder Retinol Treatment – this drug has a stable administration system for retinol and is particularly suitable for complexion smoothing. It also contains antioxidants and hydrating hyaluronic acid.

Dermalogica Night Retinol Repair – It is difficult to resist a product that you use while sleeping. This one comes with a buffer cream that you mix with retinol to help the skin enter the active treatment more easily.

Alternatives to retinol

The rise of clean beauty has given rise to alternatives to retinol. The most animated is certainly Bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol is an extract of the plant Psoralea Corylifolia, an ingredient often used in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicines.

"Although it has no structural resemblance to retinoids, it has been proven that this botanical ingredient acts on the same skin genes to stimulate collagen production," said Dr. Cara McDonald, director of Complete Skin. Specialists, at the beginning of the year.

A brand exploiting the power of bakuchiol is Bybi Beauty with its Bakuchiol Booster.

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"Bakuchiol is suitable for all skin types, but it is especially useful for the more sensitive skin who wants to benefit from all the benefits of vitamin A, but who have difficulty using it regularly (if at all!). It is best to use them after exfoliating the skin gently before applying denser oils or moisturizing agents to ensure maximum absorption.With BYBI, we have combined 1% of bakuchiol (the highest concentration of products skin care) with 99% skin softening squalane to create our Bakuchiol Booster, light texture, ideal for oily skin that may choose to avoid richer oils, "wrote Bybi's founders , Elsie Rutterford and Dominika Minarovic.

Who should not use it

Pregnant and breastfeeding women should avoid retinol because of the risk of birth defects (experts say the risk is low but it's still best to remove it from your diet).

You should also skip if you have psoriasis, eczema or rosacea, as this can worsen these conditions.

You should not mix retinol with benzoyl peroxide, AHA, and BHA as this may harm the skin.

The founder of Skin Regimen, who has just embarked on the neuroscience of the Australian market, Dr. Claudia Aguirre, has the tips below to introduce retinol into your diet.

• WHAT TO DO: Always apply retinol products in evening, as most retinoids are photolabile, that is, they decompose with exposure to the sun. For best results, leave it overnight.
• DO NOT: Apply on damp skin, make sure to always apply on dry skin. Most dermatologists will tell you that the best way to make sure the product absorbs better is to apply your moisturizers to moist skin. Due to the strength of retinol, if you apply it to moist skin, the product will be applied deeper and leave you dry and irritated skin.
• MAKE: Ease retinol in your diet. Start with a lower concentration every two nights and increase slowly.

Nica Marcello, National Education Manager at Estée Lauder, acknowledges that it is essential to slowly introduce retinol and strengthen tolerance.

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"For optimal results, wait at least 30 minutes before applying other skincare products. Limit initial use to once or twice a week, thus increasing the frequency as much than tolerated, "she says.

Its another essential when using retinol? To be very in the sun.

"A sunscreen is always essential, but especially if you use a retinol-based or retinol-based product.The exposure to UV rays reduces the effectiveness of the product, which makes its use less beneficial. It is also known that retinol increases the photosensitivity in our always use a broad and high-spectrum sunscreen.This is also why you should only apply retinal in the evening, "she says.

What to buy this Thursday

Your weekly recommendation for a late night shopping trip …

Sodashi Enzyme Face Polish

It's such a charming mark if you want every day to feel like a spa day (well, who does not?). It's a physical exfoliant as it contains a finely ground rice powder to gently exfoliate the skin. You can also use it as a treatment by letting it work for a minute. It contains geranium and lightening orange, macadamia and apricot oils, as well as vitamin E, which provides a feeling of softness on my skin and protects me from the effects of lightening. a bad sleep. extra glass of wine. $ 110, sodashi.com.au

Skin Deep, our weekly beauty column, is not sponsored. All product recommendations are genuine mentions.