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The launch of Kylie Skin by Kylie Jenner brought out Internet detectives.
A review recently taken to social media to wonder if the skin care range of the youngest member of the Kardashian-Jenner family is actually vegan and humane, as she claims.
The controversy centers on two ingredients contained in the Vanilla Milk toners ($ 22) and the foaming facial cleanser ($ 24): squalane and hydroxyacetophenone, respectively.
The first is a popular ingredient that claims to clean the skin without removing moisture, but it seems that some confuse it with the squalene bearing the same name, derived from shark liver oil.
Kylie Skin says on its website that its herbal squalane is "a highly refined olive-derived moisturizer that helps strengthen and restore the moisture barrier of the skin."
Nicola Kilner, CEO of Deciem, whose brand, The Ordinary, offers a popular squalane cleaner ($ 7.90), explained the difference between the vegan compound and its Six Page Style shark derived counterpart.
"Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is found naturally in the skin. Our vegan squalane, The Ordinary, is 100% pure derived from plants and sugar cane, "she said. "Although squalane and squalene seem very similar and have advantages over the skin, they differ in their origin and composition."
"Squalene is a natural compound present in some plants and obtained commercially from fish oils, especially shark liver oil," she added, "while squalane is a hydrocarbon coming from sugar cane sustainably ".
Hydroxyacetophenone is the fourth ingredient in Jenner's Facial Cleanser; the product uses 4-hydroxyacetophenone, which comes from berries.
But 3-hydroxyacetophenone, a different version of the product, is a component of castoreum, the exudate of rock bags of mature beaver.
According to Mia Saini Duchnowski, co-founder and CEO of the cruelty-free vegetarian brand Oars + Alps, synthetic variation is common in skin products.
"It's mainly used in cosmetics for a variety of reasons, including enhancing the effectiveness of preservatives, as a soothing agent and for the inclusion of antioxidants," she told Page Six. .
Certified Vegan delivers official certification for food and beauty companies; Although Kylie Skin is not yet listed as a recipient, the application and validation period takes several weeks and Jenner has just launched its skincare line on May 22nd.
Jenner had previously been the target of criticism for including a walnut scrub in her Kylie Skin range and had been mocking makeup residue left on her face after being washed with her cleanser.
But the controversy clearly did not influence Jenner's fans; the first set of six products, including a $ 125 pack, was sold almost immediately and packs that were restocked on Wednesday also sold in two hours.
The rest of the products will be available again on Monday.
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