Alone in the fortress: how lives the last knight of an ancient order in Malta | World

I then sent him an email explaining that he had gone to Malta specifically to learn to behave like the famous knights of the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem of Rhodes and of Malta, also known as the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. . The next morning, then, he answered more willingly.

"Well, I imagine that being a knight also means serving others, even when you're caught off guard on a Sunday night," he wrote.

So I met him on a Tuesday afternoon at Sant Sant Angelo, in the great port of the Maltese capital, Valletta, where he is the only inhabitant of the isolated fortress since 1998. He was wearing a cream polo and greeted him with a warm smile and raised his hand. "Here," said the knight, and we climbed the wall.

The Order of Malta, founded around 1099 in Jerusalem, is a Roman Catholic cavalry society. In 1530, the Order received the Maltese Islands on a perpetual grant from Carlos 1º of Spain in exchange for the promise of a Maltese Falcon each year.

Grand Master Jean de la Valette and his knights inaugurate the country's new capital, which former British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli will later call "a city built by knights for knights".

Fra Critien is now the only knight in the archipelago to have made his vows, making him the last true Knight of Malta in Malta.

We crossed the upper part of the fortress of Sant Angelo, a medieval bastion with honeyed tones rebuilt in the 16th century, which served as the Maltese seat to the head of the order and seat during the great siege of Malta in 1565, when the Ottomans tried to invade the archipelago.

Most of the fortress is still open to visitors. During the last year alone, a limited number of travelers can also visit the most isolated part of the building, since Valletta has become the European Capital of Culture 2018. But Fra Critien is currently negotiating with the Malta Heritage Trust to extend the Access of visitors. beyond 2018. And hope to inaugurate a small museum devoted to recent designs of knights.

During the tour, we stopped in a spacious lounge whose walls were adorned with oil paintings of great masters and I straightened my shoulders while copying the noble posture of Fra Critien. Given the intention of Valette to create a Knights City, I asked Fra Critien what it would mean exactly to be a Knight in the eyes of the order.

The official motto of the order, Tuitio fidei and obsequium pauperum ("Defense of Faith and Assistance to the Poor") defines his attachment to religion and charity. "In the past, the defense of faith mounted on horseback and fought against enemies," said Fra Critien. "Now we are faithful to the faith as an example to those around us."

Gifts, hospital work and youth programs are among the actions of the Knights of Malta. According to Fra Critien, they follow a fundamental characteristic: humble pride.

"I even hope that there is a reaction" wow! "When we wear our uniforms or our church clothes," said Fra Critien. "But I pray that I do not take myself too seriously because of that."

Today, he explained, there are about 100 knights and ladies (the female members are known) in Malta, but they have not made a wish. # 39; s order. In the world, from New York to London and Rome, there are about 13,500 knights and ladies in order. But many are struggling to make vows of poverty, chastity and obedience as Fra Critien did – he therefore maintains the status of lone knight in Malta and one of the 55 of the World order.

"Runner is a race in danger?", He asked rhetorically. "Well, to some extent, yes."

But Fra Critien does not believe that it is necessary to be a knight to act in this way: "To be honest, I do not see much difference between being a knight and a gentleman."

The next day When I arrived at the Rocca Piccola in Valletta, I made sure that I remained as erected as a knight. The residence belongs to the Marquis Nicholas de Piro, member of the Order of Malta and from one of the famous aristocratic families of the country. The building has retained its Baroque elegance from the 16th century, with a limestone facade that shines a golden tone with the afternoon sun. Today, the Marquis and his wife open the labyrinth of rooms to the visit.

"Everyone thinks that being a knight, it's just being smart, smart or imposing," said the marquis next to his parrot, Kiku, in his sun-drenched garden. He stressed that the true impact of the Order of Malta is charity.

Behavior is another unique feature of knights. And to act badly is a serious mistake, added the marquis. He cites the example of the Renaissance painter, Caravaggio, who became a Knight of the Order after his arrival on the island in 1607.

Caravaggio came from Rome, where he had killed a man in a duel. Despite everything, the knights believed in their good intentions and the court needed a painter. The creation of his most important and only signed work, Jean-Baptiste's decapitation, still on display at Saint-Jean cathedral, reinforces its value on order. However, a year later, he was arrested for allegedly involved in a fight. The knights imprisoned him in the fortress and put him out of action.

On his way to his residence, the Marquis revealed another attribute of the knight: a dose of humor. He cited the tombstone of Anselm of Cays, a famous 18th century knight, buried in Saint John's Cathedral. The inscription on his marble tomb indicates: trodden "), statement which, according to the marquis, poses a threat of good humor.

After saying goodbye to the marquis, I went for a drink at The Club The Phenicia Hotel, where Pierre & # 39; Pitro & # 39; Walton has been the bartender for 30 years and has served names such as Queen Elizabeth II and Frank Sinatra.While I was trying to review my gallantry lessons – humble pride, charity, bravery, humor – I asked what Walton, a commoner like me, thought of the chivalrous heritage of his country.

"To be a true knight, you must have a great sword and go to war, but the blood of the knights flows into the veins of the Maltese, "said Walton.That is why, he continued, the Maltese are renowned for their hospitality. [19659027] Work in hospitals – and by extension, hospitality – is an integral part of homework re, said Walton. In fact, it was an 11th century refugee health unit that marked the establishment of order. Later, the famous Sacra Infermeria Hospital of the sixteenth century in Valletta – today the Mediterranean Conference Center – welcomed everyone from beggars to nobility. It is here that knights have set medical standards, such as changing bedding, using silver dishes and utensils and creating innovative honey-based ointments.

Of course, Walton's remedy comes in the form of a badtail. After I spoke of Maltese hospitality, he served me a St Elmo, a legend of chivalry similar to that of the elixir to commemorate the great siege of Malta. The drink consists of Bajtra (soft palm liquor on the Maltese side), gin (Cointreau), lime (acidity of life) and cranberry juice (blood).

"Now sit down," he said, straightening the towel on the table in front of me.